For the Love of Wine by PbD

Trifon Zarezan - Bulgaria’s Valentine’s Day | by tania kapoor | Ogan Decor | @deep.look.ny

While most of the world is celebrating St Valentine’s Day with roses and chocolates, on February 14, Bulgarians celebrate St. Trifon Zarezan (Trifon/Tryphon the Pruner) the patron of vine growers and wine makers.

Not that they haven’t adopted the more commercial St Valentine’s Day too, but celebrating vines and wines is a very important part of Bulgarian culture and tradition.

Trifon Zarezan Day traditionally, was the year’s first day of work in the vineyards that snake across the Bulgarian countryside. It is about the cutting of unnecessary branches from the vines at the beginning of February and preparing them for the upcoming season.

Women make bread and roasted chicken stuffed with rice. The bread, and chicken with some wine is what each man going to the vineyard carries with him. When the vines are being pruned, wine is being poured on the soil for fertility. After the pruning, each village appoints a Wine King who wears a wreath made from the pruned vine sticks. the Wine King and a priest then bless the vineyards and wish successful harvest to all vine growers and wine makers. At the end, everyone gets together at the Wine King’s home and celebrates the day with a lot of food, wine and traditional music.

The legend goes that Trifon was the brother of Virgin Mary. Trifon was pruning the vines one day, when Virgin Mary passed by on her way to prayer with newborn Jesus in her arms. Trifon laughed at her for having a divine child. Virgin Mary went to Trifon’s village and told his wife that he had had his nose cut at the vineyard. Trifon’s wife rushed to the vineyard to see her husband. Trifon laughed and explained that this was impossible because he was holding his pruning shears pointed downwards and not upwards toward his face. As he jokingly moved the pruning shears upwards, he accidentally cut his nose. The day is named after Trifon Zarezan (zarezan means the cut, the pruned one in Bulgarian).

Most wineries in Bulgaria still follow this ritual and observe St. Trifon Day in this way.

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New Year Garden Healthcare by PbD

Every new year gives us a fresh start on our gardens. But you don’t have to start on day 1. Take care of your garden all year and let us help you. We have new services this year, 2021, to do just that. In addition to expert hand pruning, arborist consulting and landscape design and installation management, PbD gives you an environmentally friendly choice for caring for your plants, shrubs, trees, soil and other living organisms in your garden. Here’s how we’ll do it …

 

Garden Healthcare

Garden Health Consulting - PbD can help you identify and assess your garden challenges and strengths so that you may improve your garden’s health from the ground up. We take a holistic approach by investigating the impact of storm water, soil compaction, looking for potential pests and disease vectors, making sure the bones of the garden have good architecture and foliage has vigor. We can make recommendations and give you academically supported information and strategies for increasing ecological resilience in your garden.

Weeding & Invasive Plant removal : Our PbD team can handle your weeds and invasives! Unlike typical mow and blow lawn maintenance companies, we can offer regular hand weeding by a crew who has knowledge about how to manage ornamental perennials, removing weeds and invasives without using chemicals. We can manage large area Ivy removal projects as an additional service, on a Project Basis.

IPM Monitoring & Practices

Monitor Key Pests and Key Plants : We develop a plant health checkup review database sheet for your unique garden and use it to monitor key pests and key plants for you year round, documenting as we go. We get to know your garden and look for signs and symptoms of potential illness and problems before they become unmanageable. Pbd offers assistance in diagnosing and strategizing, as needed.

Mechanical and Physical Controls : Pruning is your first line of defense against problem insect pests. We prune out infestations but we also know which are the beneficial insects to encourage and leave in place. We prune to encourage airflow and remove disease vectors, to improve the health and vigor of your garden. This is our standard practice! We do not use chemical controls. You can count on us.

We are happy to provide you with a proposal for Annual Seasonal Maintenance weeding, or weeding on an As Needed Basis; Weeding and invasive removal + IPM monitoring services = Garden Health Care. Let us know what you need and we can help you!

A forest in your backyard? by PbD

Forest Wildlife Fox

You can make a habitat in your yard, too | by annika haksar

Adele and I recently attended a class series in Natural Area Management at the University of Maryland, learning to better help you if you would like to convert some of your lawn into a natural habitat. There can be many reasons to want to do that - not having to mow large areas of grass being only one of them! Environmental stewardship of your land and streams, increased beauty and screening, and providing habitat for wildlife can be powerful reasons to create a natural habitat. Not to mention for your personal enjoyment. Take a hike, hang a hammock and watch and listen to the birds!

It may be tempting to think that this can be achieved by simply not mowing, but that will take a very long time. Also, if you have invasive species such as honeysuckle, porcelain berry, and English ivy, they are likely to take over and outcompete the more desirable native species.

Different wildlife populations rely on different stages of the forest development, and so it is important to introduce a soft buffer between your lawn and mature stands of trees. Areas with native grasses and other woody plants like blueberries, spirea and raspberries are important for nesting, rearing the young, and cover. Rabbits and young turkeys can often be seen here. Native shrubs and small trees, for example dogwoods, elderberry, witch hazel and viburnum, provide nest sites for birds and protection for many other species. Mature stands of native trees such as oaks, beech trees, and maples provide food for forest critters large and small.

Does it sound too expensive for you? Check out Forests for the Bay to see if there are programs that may be right for you. Do you want to learn more? The Woods in Your Backyard from the University of Maryland Extension Office is an excellent resource!

2020 Urban Tree of the Year : Celtis occidentalis by PbD

Society of Municipal Arborists 2020 Urban Tree of the Year

Each fall, members of the Society of Municipal Arborists (SMA) nominate and vote for the SMA Urban Tree of the Year. This tradition dates to 1996 when the urban workhorse ‘Princeton Sentry’ Ginkgo was crowned. And for 2020 the Urban Tree of the Year is none other than the Celtis occidentalis or the common Hackberry! … Continue reading Society of Municipal Arborists 2020 Urban Tree of the Year

Casey Trees

Celtis occidentalis or the common Hackberry  CREDIT: Blog Post by Jona Elwell January 27, 2020 Casey Trees

Celtis occidentalis or the common Hackberry CREDIT: Blog Post by Jona Elwell January 27, 2020 Casey Trees

…“The hackberry has for centuries lived a life of unassuming existence – a wonderful shade provider from the Elm family with its shares of upsides and downsides – that no doubt lives up to its oft-cited nickname: ‘the unknown tree.’ When given the opportunity of rich, moist, open soil it has the potential to reach nearly 100’ high and last for well over a century – but most often it’s considered a medium-sized tree found in parks and wetlands, parking lots and open yards”… READ MORE

CODIT by PbD

One of the most beautiful explanations of an elegant natural system : Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees or CODIT

Developed and described by Alex L. Shiga Plant Pathologist, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Northeastern Forest Experiment Station, Durham, New Hampshire and Harold G. Marx Research Applications Staff Assistant, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Washington, DC

Watercolor illustrations by David M. Carroll, Warner, New Hampshire.

Watercolor illustrations by David M. Carroll, Warner, New Hampshire.

https://www.nrs.fs.fed.us/pubs/misc/ne_aib405.pdf READ the full text and VIEW the clear illustrations.

The CODIT system is based on two major points. First, a tree is a highly compartmented plant. Second, after a tree is wounded, the resulting defects are compartmentalized …
— by Alex L. Shiga and Harold G. Marx

PbD Pruning Guide by PbD

Pbd PRUNING PHILOSOPHY & STRATEGY : Selective Hand Pruning | by adele medina o’dowd

Would you like to prune shrubs and ornamental trees in your own garden? Perhaps you simply want to understand how pruning can improve the look and health of your garden even if you recruit others to prune for you. Either way, that’s wonderful! Clearly, knowing about some some basics and techniques will set you off on the right foot, but how do you begin? Well, take a deep breath and first step back, then use this philosophy to help you wrap your mind around a strategy that can guide you — Selective Hand Pruning. By definition, Selective Hand Pruning means that you proactively select which branches to prune and by doing so, you will strengthen your shrub’s natural architecture, resiliency and ability to photosynthesize. Here’s how to implement …


THINK

1st step : Stand back at the curb, front door or the edge of your yard and take a careful overview of your entire front or back yard. Prioritize pruning plants in your yard based on time of year and what looks healthy and what does not.

2nd step : Consider what is a plant’s natural growth habit?  — is the natural shape or form of a plant ever square? 

3rd step : think about the job/role of the specific plant within the yard – what is its purpose? Screening, Flowers, Foundation, Seasonal Interest, Wildlife Habitat, Fragrance, Soil Retention, Shade, what?

UNDERSTAND that plants in the wild do not grow into rigid geometric shapes.  If you consider what the ideal, natural shape is for your plants and picture what that looks like in your mind, you will see softer forms. Even if you would like to have a hedge or shrubs with a more formal shape, plant shapes are organic. It is not healthy for shrubs to be sheared and foliage to be cut in the middle, disrupting its food supply and creating wounds that take extra resources to heal. With some confidence and practice, it is not so hard to make good pruning cuts quickly. You can do it! When you are done, the best results will be evident if the yard does not appear to be obviously “pruned”, but rather, when it just looks healthy, rejuvenated and better.

APPROACH pruning a shrub or tree with the idea of being selective. Before you start, determining what you are trying to achieve, with one plant and within a plant’s grouping. Where are you encouraging growth? Are you trying to reduce size? Do you want to re-balance the shape, encourage fruit and flowers, and foliage. Don’t rush it. It may take more than 1 season to get there. Plants are resilient so you might be able to prune them “hard” but don’t expect to prune them into a shape that they will retain forever — doing that will cause them to become unhealthy “empty shells”. Remember that plants have a life cycle in which they have youthful growth, reach their full potential and then eventually decline with age. Manage your own expectations while implementing your vision. Be selective, be patient and think about the future form and health of your plant.

PRUNE : Now is the moment to make your cut choices. Choose between any competing or crossing branches and retain the best leader of your plant needs a strong one. If there are too many, eliminate some branches that emanate from one location, keeping the best for the overall plant structure. Expect to prune branches at different levels and layers within the canopy. Retain internal and secondary branches. Careful not to injure foliage and bark unwittingly, causing undue stress and literally cutting off food production photosynthesis in leaves and nutrient flow in the vascular system.

  • Prune no more than ¼ to ⅓ — pruning too much at once can stress the plant

  • Careful not to injure Branch Collars

  • Start by pruning out any dead or weak wood (always)

  • Prune long and too heavy branches so they don’t break in winter and get leggy

  • Prune crossing and competing branches that are too close and parallel

  • Prune suckers and waterspouts when the plant is dormant

  • Next let light and air in — make “holes” in the canopy evenly over the entire plant so foliage blends but light and air can filter down into the interior

  • Stagger and vary the depth of your cuts inside the plant

  • Then begin shaping the whole thing based on your vision and knowledge of the plant’s natural form, move forward, stand back, blur your eyes, look at the plant or group, as a whole

  • Consider the interior branch architecture — what should that look like even if you don’t see it from the exterior? Are the scaffold branches strong? Are the smaller, lateral branches balanced all over and nicely spread?

  • Careful with hollies and other plants with branches that shoot from new cuts — “hide” cuts further inside foliage or low to the ground

  • Careful in Aug/Sept — let shrubs remain a bit rough at this typically stressful time of year to conserve energy and foliage

  • Remember that evergreens shed leaves 3 times/yr and sometimes it’s good just to shake or hand remove the brown leaves or needles that are hanging on without pruning branches at all

CLEAN UP AS YOU GO

  • CLEAN TOOLS OFTEN. Use bleach wipes or dip tools between plants, beds or areas.

  • Careful NOT to spread disease!  Look for pest infestations and also good predators!

  • Contain pathogens by having a bag or blanket right next to you as you prune, throwing them inside to keep infected trimmings and infested foliage together and OFF the beds. (Friends don’t let friends use leaf blowers. You can spread box blight with them).

PRUNE WITH FRIENDS : Unless you are already hooked on the zen of pruning, we understand that sometimes it can seem like an overwhelming job. But pruning with your friends makes it easy. You can relax and keep each other company. When you prune with friends and family, you can compare ideas for which cuts to make or not to make and ask for extra eyes to help you see the plant or the grouping from different views, especially at a distance. This is VERY helpful when you are standing inside a big boxwood, a densely planted azalea bed, or standing on a ladder looking up into the branches of your Japanese Maple or Flowering Cherry. Talk about it, as you work. Offer to help your neighbor and ask them to help you. Pruning is really fun with friends! Learn and gain confidence together. Enjoy yourselves and you’ll be done in no time.

Yellowwood Lillipop = Bad by PbD

Winter dormancy is a great time to prune ornamental and young trees to improve their architecture, structural integrity and form. This Yellowwood [ Cladrastis kentukea ] was in real need of correction after having been pruned badly last summer.

Yellowwood BEFORE: too wide and bad branch lollipop architecture.  AFTER: looks much more natural, fits the space.

Yellowwood BEFORE: too wide and bad branch lollipop architecture. AFTER: looks much more natural, fits the space.

BEFORE : If you look at the “Before” images below, you can see that previously, it had been pruned so that virtually every branch was cut so that each was the same exact length, assuming a weird lollipop shape. This shape is very unnatural and unfortunate for ANY tree! It almost looks like a fan. We often see trees that have been pruned in this fashion when the owner really only wanted for the tree to be shortened or neatened a bit. Pruning trees into lollipops is a bad idea for the tree’s health because, in the same way that shearing a shrub creates a more dense exterior shell of foliage, lollipop trees suffer from poor architecture that blocks light from the interior of the tree. Branches become long and spindly and can break more easily, there is much less interior foliage for photosynthesis, and the tree becomes stressed. Plus, it’s silly looking and awkward. You don’t want your tree to look and feel like a cartoon.

Yellowwood BEFORE cuts are bad.  AFTER PbD cuts provide much better interior branching architecture.

Yellowwood BEFORE cuts are bad. AFTER PbD cuts provide much better interior branching architecture.

AFTER : To correct this, Pruning by Design made staggered cuts at many different levels in the tree canopy being careful to create a balanced, soft form. You can see in the diagram of the cuts above, that it is very possible to allow more natural characteristic branching by pruning the tree correctly. Trees grow in this way for a reason, because it provides an evolutionary advantage. We keep and encourage a strong leader and main branches with shorter lateral branches inside. We cleaned up broken or weak branches, and shortened some of the overly long side branches that extended over the walk and into the neighbor’s doorway. By creating layers within the tree, the tree’s future health is improved by allowing light and air circulation in, important for preventing fungal growth and insect attacks. The Yellowwood’s structure is now much more graceful, too. Now it looks like a tree, not a lollipop.

What the Heck is IPM? by PbD

Key Concepts Behind Integrated Pest Management

Besides being wonderful, IPM–Integrated Pest Management–is a sustainable, environmental approach to managing insect pests and pathogens in our gardens and other urban and suburban landscapes. The acronym need not be mysterious or intimidating, on the contrary, IPM will become your “Go To” once you get to know it!

Friends of Foes?  Psocids, also known as bark lice,  hanging out on a Cherry Tree.  Psocids are fungivores, not damaging to  the tree.  (photo : adele medina o’dowd)

Friends of Foes? Psocids, also known as bark lice, hanging out on a Cherry Tree. Psocids are fungivores, not damaging to the tree. (photo : adele medina o’dowd)

IPM Control Strategy start to finish…

Monitor Key Pests and Key Plants : Your first line of defense. Learn what to look for in your own garden and decide which areas, plants and trees are most important to you. (If, for example, Azaleas and Rhododendrons are important to you, get help from the UMD extension office website to learn about common pest and pathogens.) Get assistance in diagnosing and strategizing, as needed. Pruning by Design can help you with this!

Cultural and Sanitation Practices : Add biodiversity and native plants to your yard, include disease resistant plants, maintain plant health, the right amount of mulch; reduce habitat and soil stressers. Make sure irrigation is not too much or too little. PbD can help you with this!

Mechanical and Physical Controls : PbD can help you with this! PRUNE! Prune out infestations and hand pick to remove problem insect pests, use high pressure water spray to blast them off. Prune to encourage airflow and remove disease vectors.

Biological Controls : Implement these after working with other good plant health care practices, encourage or establish predatory insects such as lacewings and lady beetles to pray on pests like aphids, attract and support birds in your own garden, add beneficial nematodes in your soil, strive for a natural balance of predator and pray insects in your yard so that pest outbreaks are less likely. PbD can help you with this!

Chemical Controls : Last Resort, use organic and inorganic pesticides only on a prescription basis, applied by professionals. There is real and present danger for pollinators and other beneficial insects, as well as humans, when they are used in our neighborhoods. Check out your pesticides with the OMRI, Organic Materials Review Institute. PbD does not use chemical controls.

Don’t use fertilizers. Nitrogen, common in nearly every fertilizer, can actually promote secondary pest outbreaks that are worse than the first infestation, sigh!